100 British Bus Routes: Route 12
Newton Abbot to Brixham
24 September 2024
ABOVE: Stagecoach South West 15318 (YN67 YKB), a Scania N250UD ADL Enviro400 MMC, passes the "Hare and Hounds" pub in Kingskerswell, near Newton Abbot, whilst working route 12 from Brixham. All photos in this article were taken on Thursday 2 May 2024.
Runs: Daily, including full evening service
Operator: Stagecoach South West
Weekday daytime frequency: Every 12 minutes
Estimated Peak Vehicle Requirement: 16 buses
Off-peak journey time (weekdays): 88-89 minutes
Estimated route length: 13-15 miles
Operator: Stagecoach South West
Weekday daytime frequency: Every 12 minutes
Estimated Peak Vehicle Requirement: 16 buses
Off-peak journey time (weekdays): 88-89 minutes
Estimated route length: 13-15 miles
Sherborne Road in Newton Abbot, Devon, sounds just like any normal street. I have visions of a "High Street" setting, with shops down both sides and various bus stops scattered along the road for the various routes in and out of the town.
The scattered bus stop idea isn't far out, I suppose, but the rest of my mental vision is far from the reality. Sherborne Road could probably be described quite legitimately as a bus station, or a bus interchange anyway. It sits between a multi-storey car park and Newton Abbot's main shopping centre, and is restricted to buses and "permit holders". There are four stops along each side of the road. (You can get an idea of the layout from the very last photo in my article on bus route 2 from Exeter.)
And it's from stand A on Sherborne Road that route 12 begins. Operated by Stagecoach South West, this is a major service through some of the most popular and best-known tourist resorts in the region, as we shall discover...
The Market Town of Newton Abbot has been inhabited since Neolithic times, according to Visit South Devon, and was later occupied by the Romans. Referred to as the New Town of the Abbots (from the nearby Torre Abbey) the town was renamed Newton Abbot by the year 1300.
It's a quiet start to my journey, with just a couple of passengers aboard our Scania-chassis ADL Envro400 MMC from the terminus. It will liven up, though.
There's heavy traffic delaying our progress through the town, although this does give me longer to admire Newton Abbot railway station. We're in the heart of Great Western Railway (GWR) territory, of course, and, with that in mind, the station design does not disappoint.
Newton Abbot station was opened by the South Devon Railway Company on 30 December 1846, but this GWR building, "South Devon House", dates back to a rebuild in 1927.
From the railway station, it's only a short drive to the Penn Inn Flyover that carries the A381 road - the South Devon Highway - over a major roundabout.
We pass under the flyover and then join the A381 itself for about three-quarters-of-a mile before pulling off into the village of Kingskerswell. According to Wikipedia, the first written record of this village is in the Domesday Book of 1086, although, even further back before the Norman Conquest, it was held by Edward the Confessor, and continued in royal ownership under William the Conqueror and his descendants. The first part of the village's name represents this royal ownership.
We're already entering into the suburbs of Torquay by this point, starting with Edginswell.
We serve Torbay Hospital, and then head into Torre, a district within Torquay.
Soon we are descending into Torquay itself (and I think descending is the right word)...
Torquay's mild climate has earned it its nickname of the English Riviera. The town's economy was initially based upon fishing and agriculture, until it developed, in the early 19th century, into a fashionable seaside resort.
Dame Agatha Christie was born here. I have always been amused by the fact that, during both World Wars, she served in hospital dispensaries, acquiring a thorough knowledge of the poisons that subsequently featured in many of her novels, short stories and plays!
Buses have exclusive approval to run down Fleet Street, which is closed to other traffic and looks deceptively like a pedestrian precinct. Just don't arrive at the same time as the bus from the other direction...
We turn onto the seafront at the end of Fleet Street, at Torquay Harbour. It's not looking its best, though, as there are major redevelopment works going on and the whole set-up is covered in bollards, temporary signs and heras fencing.
ABOVE: This is Cary Parade, just along the Torquay Seafront from the Harbour. Quite a rare beast nowadays is the Dennis Dart SLF Plaxton Pointer 2, but 18-year-old 34866 (WA06 HMY) was still in service in May 2024 (and still is as I write this in September). It is about to start a journey on Town Circular route 35C, via Shiphay and Torbay Hospital. On the right is another of the usual fare for route 12.
We turn onto the Torbay Road, and will be alongside the sea for the next couple of miles.
As I have already alluded to, Torquay is one of those places, like many seaside resorts, that exists on many levels. Those who don't like hills need not stop (everyone else should, though)!
ABOVE: A view of the many differing styles of building to be seen when looking from the Torbay Road towards Shedden Hill Road (centre) and the continuation of Torbay Road (right). The 'distinctive' building in the centre comprises of a number of restaurants and coffee shops at ground level, with private residences that I suspect are 'sought after' above. You can just see the sea on the right, behind the wall.
If you're wondering what you might expect to see out of a Torquay hotel bedroom window, like the insufferable Mrs Richards in Fawlty Towers; well, the right window, such as the one on the number 12 bus, will show you this stunning bay that gives the Torbay region its name:
It's less than two-and-a-half miles as the crow flies from Torquay to Paignton, but probably twice as far for us due to the curvature of the road. But we're soon coming into Paignton Town Centre and approaching the Bus Station. There are 15 bays here to cover all services passing through the town.
The railway station is adjacent. As well as being the terminus of the main GWR line, it is also the starting point of the Dartmouth Steam Railway to Kingswear.
On my trip, the Torquay to Paignton section has been the busiest, but, in high tourist season, it is the section that we are now embarking on that can be the busiest, as we push deeper into the English Riviera. We're following the broad path of the Dartmouth Steam Railway for the time-being, and are clinging close to the coast (if not now always in sight of it) as we reach Goodrington, just a mile south of central Paignton.
We meet the Steam Railway again in Churston (setting of part of Agatha Christie's Poirot story "The ABC Murders"). The station buildings are complemented by engine sheds and sidings. The station was opened in 1861 as Brixham Road.
Sadly, it appears that trains no longer call at this fine station, now running non-stop between Paignton and Kingswear.
The train route diverges from ours now. There was once a separate branch to Brixham, but this closed in 1963, although, in 1964, Brixham station became Roxham Station for a film called "The System", starring Oliver Reed and directed by Michael Winner, and reportedly critical to both of their careers. (Incidentally, the line that became the Dartmouth Steam Railway survived as part of British Railways until 1972.)
It's not just trains, though; there are a couple of buses parked up here as well. These are operated by River Link, which is owned by the Dartmouth Steam Railway (so their being parked here makes perfect sense)! They seem to be used mainly on local tours under the "Round Robin" banner.
It's an enticing package, actually - bus from Paignton to Totnes, River Cruise to Dartmouth, Ferry to Kingswear and Train back to Paignton.
We're onto the approach road into Brixham now. This lovely fishing port is a huge tourist attraction, with evidence of settlement dating back to the Saxon era.
Sadly, I have arrived just a couple of days too early for the annual Brixham Pirate Festival, which takes place over the early May Bank Holiday. The festival is a very large event in the town, with thousands of residents and visitors attending (sounds a lot of fun, actually - maybe I can dust off my eyepatch and bandana in time for next year...).
The terminus for route 12 is in Brixham's Town Square, under the watchful eye of the All Saint's Anglican Church.
We have arrived on time; the journey has taken just under an hour-and-a-half. It's a very short walk down to the Harbour (but more of a climb back)! Flags are already being erected along the road in readiness for the Pirate Festival.
Pride of place in the Harbour is a replica of The Golden Hind, Sir Francis Drake's galleon. It is based on a steel barge and is not seaworthy. Apparently it's a permanent exhibit that replaced an earlier replica built for a TV series in the 1960s (the earlier replica sank in 1987 whilst on tow)!
This particular route 12 was always going to be my choice for the 100 British Bus Routes series. It's a lovely ride along one of the most delightful coastlines in Britain. There are some lovely sea views, especially around Torquay, and it's a route that is popular with tourists and locals alike. Give it a go if you're in the area.
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