Richmond to Richmond: Part One
20 June 2023
ABOVE: Dales and District ADL Enviro200 YY64 GTU arrives at Richmond Market Place, North Yorkshire, on route 159 from Ripon (although this journey has started part-way, from Middleham). It will shortly form the official start of my trip from Richmond, North Yorkshire, to Richmond, Surrey.
All photos in this article were taken on Thursday 8th June 2023.
All photos in this article were taken on Thursday 8th June 2023.
I've done a few long-distance runs by bus in my time (West London to Southampton, for example). But it was on my first and only previous visit to Richmond, North Yorkshire, that the idea of travelling by local bus all the way from there to Richmond in Surrey first came to mind.
And now, I'm actually embarking on the journey! I've drawn up a route that will take me all the way to Richmond, Surrey, exclusively by local bus services, over the course of the next two-and-a-half days.
A sign I found near the old station in Richmond, North Yorkshire, and tweeted to mark the official start of my trip to Surrey. Worked for me, but the full sign reads "Welcome to Richmond Swimming Pool / Liberty Health Club"!
I start my official journey at what was once Richmond Station. This was the end of a nine-mile long branch line that ran from Eryholme (between Darlington and Northallerton). It closed in 1969, but the building is still in use for other purposes, and, even if it wasn't actually called "The Station", I think its origins would be obvious.
The former station building in Richmond, North Yorkshire - now a "vibrant creative space, cinema, café, gallery, and a place to shop".
The old station is about half a mile from the Town Centre. It's a fascinating, if hilly, walk, starting with a crossing over the River Swale via the Mercury Bridge, before passing the offices of the former Richmondshire District Council, now the North Yorkshire Council.
As far as I can make out, this elaborate building is part of the North Yorkshire Council offices.
If you were to draw a straight line on a map between the two Richmonds, it would take you for 212 miles, broadly south-south-east, through Harrogate, then passing close to both Leeds and Sheffield, before going straight through Melton Mowbray, Wellingborough, Hemel Hempstead, Watford and Harrow, followed by West Ealing and Brentford for good measure. My route, whilst reasonably straight-forward, will only pass through three of these (and all on day one)!
If you were to draw a straight line on a map between the two Richmonds, it would take you for 212 miles, broadly south-south-east, through Harrogate, then passing close to both Leeds and Sheffield, before going straight through Melton Mowbray, Wellingborough, Hemel Hempstead, Watford and Harrow, followed by West Ealing and Brentford for good measure. My route, whilst reasonably straight-forward, will only pass through three of these (and all on day one)!
Richmond Market Place, North Yorkshire. An Arriva Enviro400 can be seen, working the 0840 Service from Darlington to Colburn on route X26 - normally buses on this route would be single-deckers.
The journey to Surrey begins at the Market Place in Richmond, North Yorkshire; the focal point for buses in the town. My first bus is really my only option for heading broadly south. The 159, operated by Dales and District, has only three through journeys per day to Ripon, so I have arrived in good time for the first one, the 1005 service.
This is the least-frequent service on my itinerary, and therefore the biggest risk. If this bus doesn't turn up, the next one is at 1350! At least there are other buses to see while I wait, slightly nervously, to start the journey.
Hodgson's 102 (SN67 XBC), an ADL Enviro200 MMC, is seen in Richmond Market Place, North Yorkshire, on route 29 from Darlington.
There is of course no reason why my bus shouldn't turn up, and it comes into view at 1002, bringing in a decent load on the incoming short working from the market town of Middleham.
There's a label on the outside of the bus that contactless cards are accepted, and at least two more inside the vehicle. Despite that signage, it's cash only (but only £2.00).
The bus is an ADL Enviro200 - a short model that is very rattly. We start quietly, with two passengers on board; three more join at a stop just out of town. I can see, from a window reflection, that the bus still has Richmond on the destination displays.
The driver is new to the route, as he is accompanied by a colleague who is ensuring that he knows the way. As we go, there are various discussions about turning down a particular road on a later journey - there are trips via the villages of Nosterfield and Thornborough that this journey does not serve.
Leyburn is the first town on the route and all of my four companions leave the bus here, but no fewer than 10 people replace them. There is a bit of discussion over the "Richmond" destination, as the service to Richmond is due in seven minutes and passengers are confused!
Destination now correctly set, we head off towards Middleham, and get a demonstration of what can delay a bus on a country lane, when a convoy of horses and riders pass through on their way back to their stable.
A series of riders arrive at the Johnston Racing Stables in Kirkgate, Middleham
This particular stable is famous in racing circles - it's "Johnston Racing"; one of the top racehorse training yards in Britain, set up by Mark Johnston in 1987, with "more than 100 winners in 29 consecutive seasons" - impressive! And it's only a momentary hold up.
Passing Dales and District YY64 GTF, an ADL Enviro200, which is operating a service in the opposite direction on route 159, in Middleham in the Yorkshire Dales
Further along the route we come to Jervaulx Abbey, a ruined monastery that was "plundered and pillaged" (according to its website) during the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 16th century. It has since been allowed to flourish with wild flowers, shrubs and trees "freely exploring its many nooks and crannies", and is available for weddings. I completely fail to get a picture of it, though.
About four miles on from Jervaulx is the market town of Masham, which has a large Market Place, doubling up (as so many of these squares do) as a Car Park. Payment for parking is via an "Honesty Box", which makes such a change from the customary apps that we're meant to use nowadays. There's also a sweet shop here called "Bah Humbugs", and a sign for "Cycopath Cycles".
Masham Market Place; look closely at the sign towards the bottom of the pole for directions to the "Honesty box"!
We reach Ripon Bus Station at 1135, just a couple of minutes late. This has been a lovely, exemplary drive through miles of open countryside. First leg of the journey complete!
From a route that runs just a handful of journeys each day to what must surely be North Yorkshire's most important bus service - the 36 to Leeds, provided by The Harrogate Bus Company, which is part of Transdev. There's a half-hourly service from Ripon, supplemented by extra buses from Harrogate to Leeds to provide an overall service every 10 minutes over that stretch.
This service is run by very high-specification Volvo B5TL Wright Eclipse Gemini 3s (which are due to be replaced by new electric buses at some point). These are impressive-looking vehicles, outside and in, and offer "2+1" seating on the upper deck (ie, three seats across each row rather than the traditional four).
Harrogate Bus Company 3628 (BL65 YZC), a Volvo B5TL Wright Eclipse Gemini 3, arrives at Ripon Bus Station with 54 passengers on route 36 from Leeds and Harrogate
The most noteworthy thing about this journey is the incoming service into Ripon. The bus arrives at 11.59am, a couple of minutes after it has been due to depart. It's market day and that may explain the fact that I count no fewer than 54 people getting off the bus.
By the time the bus has finished unloading, and has picked up a rather more modest load for the return journey (about 20 at a rough estimate), we're six minutes late setting out.
Harrogate Bus Company 3640 (BF67 GOC) is another Volvo B5TL Wright Eclipse Gemini 3, is seen at Harewood on one of the short-workings on route 36 between Leeds and Harrogate.
The terrain is more of the same; lovely, sweeping hills and rich countryside, although maybe a few more dwellings on this section. This is one of the bargain trips to be had under the £2.00 offer, having cost me £6.50 last time I did it.
And of course we soon come to the delightful spa town of Harrogate, classified by Right Move as the UK's "happiest place to live" three years running from 2013 to 2015. It also has a long list of "notable people", including the author David Nobbs (creator of Reggie Perrin), the actor Jim Carter and the composer Gerald Finzi - have a look at the Wikipedia entry.
The driver makes a valiant effort to make up the lost time; the scheduled six-minute stand at Harrogate Bus Station turns into a very quick stop, but we still arrive several minutes late into Leeds - the bus behind catches up with us on the last lap, and overtakes!
Harrogate Bus Company 3624 (BL65 YYX) is about to turn from Vicar Lane into Eastgate, in Leeds City Centre.
Leeds City Bus Station is always a busy spot, especially on a weekday afternoon, and today is no different. There are more than 20 bays, but this bus station does have one advantage over some in that it has a number of dedicated ‘set-down’ bays, which means that buses that are arriving do not get in the way of those that are leaving. Very helpful, especially when two buses on the same route arrive together!
Six of the eight vehicles in the parking area at Leeds City Bus Station on this occasion belong to First Group. Nearest the camera is 35547 (SK68 TVM), a Wright StreetDeck. Next to that is 37701 (YJ09 OAV), a Volvo B9TL Wright Eclipse Gemini from the Halifax operation. The two buses advertising "The Full Monty" are Wright StreetDecks 35537 (SK68 TUV) and 35556 (SK68 TVY). Beyond them are Wrightbus Eclipse Urban single-deckers from the Harrogate Bus company and Arriva; then two more First Group StreetDecks - 35589 (YE69 YGY) and 35583 (BX69 CVG).
And I don’t mean the 36; I’m taking the 110 Arriva service to Wakefield next. One is loading on the stand and the next one has just appeared, temporarily pulling into one of the set-down spaces. Mine is the 1345 service but it’s now just past ten-to. The other one is the 1400 service which is now due to be on the stand.
It’s going to be a busy run by the look of it. Lots of people are boarding; some, like me I suspect, should have missed this one and now be waiting for the 1400 service.
Inside Leeds City Bus Station. Note the departures board at the back (left). Although it shows the next 16 departures, the number of services passing through means that this will only cover the next 10 or so minutes' worth of services.
There are several bus routes between Leeds and Wakefield. The cities are only eight miles apart as the crow flies, and the areas between them are sprawling with suburban settlements and villages. The various services twist and turn across the area in a variety of patterns, seeking to link as many settlements as they can to the two cities.
The 110 is actually, for me, one of the less-interesting of these services, but it takes the straight route between the two and I have a lot of miles to cover. Sometimes, the most straight-forward route can be equally as stunning as the one that takes the long way round (see my trips on routes 10 and 74 in the North East, for example), but the 110 doesn’t really do it for me.
Maybe it’s because it is always so busy? In four attempts I have never yet managed to secure a front seat from the off, and today is no different. It could also be because front visibility from further back is reduced substantially by a large TV screen attached to the front bulkhead. And it's not even working!
On board the 110, the limited forward visibility on the upper deck is demonstrated here by the intrusive video screen at the front.
Arriva has taken its first steps towards contactless travel. When I board and ask for my single, I am directed to “just tap in”. Not sure whether I should have been asked to tap out at the other end, but, as I’m going to the last stop on the route, it probably doesn’t matter.
Looking east as we cross the River Aire in Leeds City Centre
I’m on a Wright StreetDeck Micro Hybrid, to Sapphire specification (although I believe that Arriva has abandoned its Sapphire and Max brands). It’s making some funny noises as it moves; the kind of creaks that would have me checking the suspension...
Not the official type for the 110, but the only picture I was able to take during this journey. This is a VDL DB300 Wright Gemini 2, heading for Leeds and seen on the Leeds Road outside Wakefield.
I reach Wakefield just too late for the hourly Stagecoach service 59A to Barnsley at 1420. The next one, on route 59 at 1520, will miss the 1619 departure that I want to take from there. I wonder whether an earlier departure on another route can buy me a few minutes, in time to get the 1619?
While I'm waiting... A Team Pennine Optare Tempo pulls into its stop at Wakefield Bus Station, to form the 1425 departure on route X1 ("Holmfirth Explorer") to Holmfirth.
The next service in that direction is the 96, operated by Globe Holidays. I used this service on my Harrogate trip in January 2022 when Stagecoach buses weren’t running. Now, I am missing out on the 59 again – maybe next time I’m in this area...
I’ve seen some aged vehicles on my previous journeys with this operator, so it’s nice to be greeted on this occasion by a smart 20-reg ADL Enviro200 MMC. Although it looks smart and clean, there is a pervading smell that reminds me of the facilities that one can only enter at Wakefield Bus Station by paying 20p and pushing through a solid iron gate.
Globe Holidays 1701 (YX70 OKR), an ADL Enviro200 MMC, pulls in to Wakefield Bus Station to form the 1505 departure to Barnsley.
There are signs on every seat reminding people to use seat belts, but there don't appear to be any seat belts fitted...
This 1505 departure starts quietly, with three passengers from the bus station. But this is school-run time, and a large group of schoolchildren have gathered at the ASDA store on the edge of town. Only about 10 of them board this service, though, so we still have sufficient capacity for the various other passengers who board and alight during the journey – and there is a fair bit of churn.
We pass the Yorkshire Sculpture Park in West Bretton, in gardens landscaped in the 18th Century. This site has been open since 1977 and is reportedly the largest sculpture park of its kind in Europe. I have previously passed this spot in mid-winter, but this is the first time I have been this way in summer and it’s noticeably busier, as one would expect of an outdoor attraction. We don't gain or lose any passengers, though.
Sculpture and sheep in the countryside of West Bretton. This is the entrance road to the Yorkshire Sculpture Park.
The busiest stop by far is at Barnsley Hospital, just a mile out of town. We might only be a short way from the end of the route, but this is clearly a major traffic objective which Globe must share with other operators. On this trip, 17 people join here.
Many passengers have alighted at the previous stop but there are still several of us left at this last stop, and all of us, without exception, thank the driver. But none of us get any acknowledgement back, which is disappointing.
Barnsley Interchange, with Stagecoach buses dominant, and a couple of Globe Holidays vehicles to provide a contrast. The footbridge links the bus interchange (left) with the railway station (right). As I type this, I find myself wondering why I have never thought about going onto the bridge to get decent photos of the Interchange...
We should have reached the massive Barnsley Interchange at 1604, in ample time for my 1619 connection. Unfortunately, it is now nearly twenty-past. I am intending to travel from here on the X17 Stagecoach service to Chesterfield, where I have my accommodation for the night, but there's no sign of it and, given the time, one can safely assume that it's gone.
I pay a visit to the facilities at the far end of the bus station, and get back towards the departure stand just in time to see the 1619 X17 service pulling off the stand (d'oh)! The next departure isn't until 1735, so I wander off into the town, to seek a bite to eat.
As I pass the time, I reflect that I have used the X17 on several previous occasions. Might there be an alternative, less-familiar way forward from here?
To be continued...
Richmond to Richmond Journey Log, Part One
287 mins 85.9 miles
Mileage figures estimated using Google Maps
- 159 Richmond, North Yorkshire to Ripon 1008-1135 87 mins 29.4 miles
- 36 to Leeds 1203-1335 92 mins 27.6 miles
- 110 to Wakefield 1353-1428 35 mins 10.4 miles
- 96 to Barnsley 1505-1618 73 mins 18.5 miles
287 mins 85.9 miles
Mileage figures estimated using Google Maps